Shared Flavors , Shared Memories
Before I Tasted It

My friends suggested gochujang spaghetti for our Saturday cook. I couldn't picture it. Spaghetti was Italian. Gochujang was Korean. I was wrong before I even tasted it.

In high school, a friend suggested we make gochujang spaghetti for our Saturday girls' day. I could not picture it at all. Gochujang (고추장) was Korean. Spaghetti was Italian. In my mind they belonged to different categories, and I was not sure they were supposed to mix.

Once I tasted it, the idea stopped mattering. The sauce was spicy, garlicky, slightly sweet, rich with melted cheese. In some ways it reminded me of a meat sauce pasta. In others it resembled tteokbokki (떡볶이). The heat came from gochujang, but the overall pleasure of it did not feel strange at all.

It only sounded strange before I ate it. If someone had described it simply as thick noodles in a spicy, savory, slightly sweet sauce, I probably would not have hesitated. But the word "spaghetti" came with one set of expectations, and "gochujang" came with another. Before tasting it, I was reacting less to the food than to the categories in my head.

Those categories seem to form early.

A large double cheeseburger with bacon, melted cheddar, and lettuce on a sesame bun, served on a printed paper wrapper.
Meat in bread — obvious once you've had one, impossible to picture if you grew up eating rice. Photo by the author.

"빵 안에 고기? 그게 모야?" — Meat in bread? What's that?

This was how a friend described seeing a hamburger for the first time as a five-year-old, newly arrived in the United States in the seventies — before Western food had made its way onto Korean tables. Growing up on rice with bulgogi, bread was in a different category entirely. Rice or bread. Meat patty or bulgogi. And yet the flavors themselves were not so far apart.

A rice burger, when I encountered one in Taiwan years later, felt immediately logical to me — but only because I had already crossed that particular line long before. The form is usually the barrier, not the flavor. What feels completely natural in one food culture can look oddly assembled in another.

A hand holding a rice burger — a meat patty and fried egg sandwiched between two pressed rice buns, wrapped in paper.
A rice burger in Taiwan. Completely logical — once you've already crossed that line. Photo by the author.

Budae-jjigae (부대찌개) was like that too — but from the inside. Born out of necessity, a very Korean solution to a very specific moment in history: kimchi, processed meat, whatever was available, made into something that somehow worked. The spicy, sour tanginess of kimchi cutting through the richness of the processed meat, and ramyeon noodles added at the end to make it complete. Baffling as a concept until you taste it. Then it makes perfect sense.

A large metal pan of bubbling budae-jjigae on a stovetop, with kimchi, spam, sliced sausage, udon noodles, ramyeon, and green onions.
My budae-jjigae, mid-boil — spam, virsli, kimchi, ramyeon, all in one pot. Baffling as a concept. Perfect sense once it's in front of you. Photo by the author.

I thought it was entirely ours — so specific to that moment in Korean history that no one else would have arrived at the same combination. Then one day I walked into my mother-in-law's kitchen in Hungary and something smelled familiar. A soup with virsli and savanyú káposzta — sour fermented cabbage, paprika-red, soft from long cooking. The sourness of the fermented cabbage against the richness of the sausage. The same logic, arrived at separately, in a kitchen that had never heard of budae-jjigae.

I was glad. Someone else had also thought to put these unlikely ingredients together — and they loved it. Explaining it to people who hadn't grown up with either dish was never easy. Hot dogs in a soup with something fermented and sour? It sounds wrong before you taste it.

A white bowl of Hungarian sausage and sauerkraut soup with potato, served with a spoon lifting a piece of virsli and potato.
Virsli soup on the weekly menu at a Hungarian restaurant — that common, that loved. The same logic as budae-jjigae, arrived at separately. Photo by the author.

Virsli has found its place in my fridge now. When I make ramyeon (라면) at home, it goes in alongside savanyú káposzta when kimchi isn't available. My instant budae-jjigae, ready in three minutes. The combination has reversed itself — what I first recognized in a Hungarian kitchen has folded into my own version of ramyeon.

That Saturday afternoon in high school, my friends and I didn't know the word "fusion." We were just cooking with what we had and what we liked. The category wall came down the moment we ate it. It usually does.